We just wrapped up our Iceland women’s retreat, and I’m still processing how incredible it was.

Waterfalls, glaciers, black sand beaches, geothermal spas, Icelandic horses, rainbows, singing at the top of our lungs in Reykjavík, and our first-ever proposal on a Coherence retreat. It was one of those weeks that reminded me exactly why I love bringing women together to experience the world.

Afterward, my husband, Brendan, flew in, and we spent a few more days exploring Iceland together for our anniversary. Between the retreat and our own adventure, I spent almost two weeks here, and I can honestly say I haven’t felt this in awe of a country in a very long time.

So this guide is a little bit of everything: our Iceland retreat experience, the best things we did along the South Coast and Golden Circle, the hotels and restaurants we tried, and what I would want to know before visiting.

South Coast Driving Route

Hotel → Seljalandsfoss & Gljúfrabúi →Íráfoss→ Skógafoss → Sólheimajökull Glacier → Dyrhólaey Viewpoint → Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach → Vík → Hotel

Golden Circle Driving Route

Hotel → Þingvellir National Park (parking lot 1)→ Brúarfoss → Geysir → Gullfoss → Friðheimar (for lunch) → Laugarás Lagoon → Kerið Crater → Hotel *or do Fontana Spa instead of Laugarás*

 

Arriving in Iceland and Getting Around

If you’re flying internationally, you’ll most likely land at Keflavík International Airport, which is roughly a 45–50-minute drive from Reykjavík. This is different from Reykjavík’s smaller city airport.

*If you are landing in KEF, make sure you bring a winter coat/gloves/hat because they may make you walk on the tarmac and take a bus to the airport. 

I arrived a day before the retreat and booked a private airport transfer through Welcome Pickups. It was convenient, but definitely pricey. I only chose that route because we already had all our transportation for the retreat arranged.

For an independent trip, I would recommend renting a car. It gives you so much freedom to explore, change plans with the weather, and stop at the places that catch your attention. Organized tours or a retreat with transportation included are good alternatives if you would rather someone else handle the driving.

One thing to understand before planning your itinerary: You can combine several sights in one day, especially along these popular routes, but don’t assume everything is 10 minutes apart. Leave room for driving, walking, meals, weather changes, and the inevitable “wait, we need to stop and look at this” moments.

Where We Stayed in Reykjavík

I tried three different hotels in the city, and each served a slightly different purpose.

Hotel Holt

Hotel Holt was my first stop before the retreat. It’s a hotel with a cozy feel, and the location was the biggest selling point for me. I could walk to Rainbow Street and the central shops and restaurants in just a few minutes.

It was comfortable, convenient, and a good place to settle in before everyone arrived.

Miðgarður by Center Hotels

We stayed at Miðgarður for the last two nights of the retreat, and I extended my stay when Brendan arrived.

Rooms were OK. It was an easy walk to plenty of cafés, restaurants, and shops, and it worked well as our base for exploring Reykjavík. Depending on where you’re heading, some of the main sights are a longer walk, but we enjoyed wandering around.

ODDSSON Downtown

We also stayed at ODDSSON Downtown toward the end of the trip. It was a straightforward, self-check-in stay that worked for what we needed: somewhere to sleep before heading home.

For me, this was more of a practical overnight stop than a hotel I would build the trip around.

Starting the Trip at Sky Lagoon

Going to a lagoon after a long flight is a pretty wonderful introduction to Iceland.

Before the retreat, I dropped my bags at Hotel Holt and took a transfer to Sky Lagoon from the BSÍ bus terminal, which was an easy walk from where I was staying. If you’re doing something similar, book the transfer alongside your admission and check the departure point carefully.

Sky Lagoon was beautiful. Warm water, an ocean view, and one of the most incredible saunas I’ve ever seen...and I love a sauna.

The huge window looking out over the water was the highlight for me. The seven-step ritual also takes you through different hot and cold experiences, including a cold plunge, mist, body scrub, and steam room.

My one frustration was that the ritual was a single journey through. Once you finished, you can't return to the sauna or steam room within that area. Personally, I would have loved the freedom to go back.

Sky Lagoon doesn’t allow children under 12!

I returned with Brendan later in the trip, and the experience was completely different. It was rainy and so windy that there were actual waves moving through the pool/lagoon. Still beautiful, but a lot more dramatic.

Our Iceland Women’s Retreat: Settling into the Countryside

For the countryside portion of the retreat, we stayed at Hotel Grímsborgir, near Selfoss and the Golden Circle.

The setting was beautiful, and it worked well as a base for our adventures. We had a lovely welcome dinner, enjoyed the restaurant food, and appreciated having somewhere comfortable to return to after full days outside.

My honest feedback is that the service didn’t always match the setting. Some front-desk interactions felt unwelcoming, and although we were expecting a Northern Lights wake-up call, we didn’t receive one on a night when our group spotted the lights overhead. That was disappointing, especially because it was something we were excited about. 

A Gentle First Day: Wool, Horses & Icelandic Culture

We intentionally kept our first full retreat day a little slower. After international flights, it felt good to ease into the experience.

One stop was Hespa, a wool-dyeing studio where the owner, Guðrún Bjarnadóttir, uses plants to dye Icelandic wool. Seeing the dye pots and learning how those colors are created was such an interesting introduction to a local craft.

We also visited a farm, met Icelandic horses up close, and saw Icelandic sheep. You’ll spot horses throughout the countryside, but having time to meet them properly and learn about them added so much to the experience.

If you want that kind of encounter, arrange a farm visit or horse experience. It’s much better than trying to stop somewhere along the road (because there aren't many spots to pull over)!

That evening, we went to a Viking-themed restaurant, Ingólfsskáli Viking Restaurant. The setting was so fun, with a throne, costumes, and props for photos. We had lamb and Arctic char, took lots of pictures, and leaned into the whole experience.

One practical lesson from traveling with a group: make dinner reservations and ask about preordering. Several places wanted our meal choices way in advance, and even hotel restaurants wanted to know exactly when we planned to eat.

The Best Stops on Iceland’s South Coast

Our South Coast day was one of the biggest adventure days of the retreat. I later revisited many of the same places with Brendan, and seeing them in different weather made them feel completely new.

Skógafoss

Skógafoss was one of my favorite waterfalls of the entire trip.

It’s huge, powerful, and one of those places where you want to stand still for a minute and take it all in.

Some of our group ended up with soaked feet while trying to reach a closer photo spot. Those beautiful waterfall photos don’t always show the wet ground (or the river you have to cross to get to the middle lol), spray, and conditions involved in getting them.

You don’t need to cross a river to enjoy Skógafoss. Stick to the established trails, wear waterproof layers, and expect plenty of spray if you get close.

 

Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach

Reynisfjara felt unlike anywhere I had been before.

The dark volcanic sand and pebbles, the sea stacks rising out of the ocean, and the sound of those waves moving over the shore created this incredibly powerful atmosphere. It felt spiritual to me...wild, intense, and almost otherworldly.

But the sea here deserves real respect. Dangerous sneaker waves can reach much farther up the beach than you expect, and people have died here. Stay well away from the water, follow the warning lights and signs, and never turn your back on the ocean.

It’s somewhere to admire from a safe distance. 

Vík

Vík is a small village that makes a useful lunch and shopping stop along the South Coast.

During the retreat, we stopped at the shopping complex for food, coffee, and a little browsing. After being outside in the wind, somewhere warm with several options was very welcome.

When I returned with Brendan, we also visited the Lava Show here, more on that below.

Sólheimajökull Glacier

Seeing the glacier was another highlight.

There’s something so different about standing in front of that landscape in person. The scale, textures, and colors are difficult to capture properly in a photo.

Allow time to walk from the parking area toward the viewing area; it isn’t simply a roadside stop. If you want to walk on the glacier itself, book a guided glacier experience with the proper equipment.

Both times we visited, I loved having the chance to pause and look at it.

Seljalandsfoss & the Nearby Hidden Waterfall

Seljalandsfoss is the famous waterfall you can walk behind when the path is open and conditions allow.

I didn’t do the full walk behind it during the retreat, so Brendan and I returned. We were already wearing our rain gear, which was perfect because you absolutely get wet.

Seeing the water fall in front of you from that angle was such a special experience.

Keep walking along the path and you’ll find more waterfalls, including Gljúfrabúi, tucked inside a narrow gorge. Getting into the gorge can involve water and slippery rocks, so assess the conditions and your comfort level before going in.

Dyrhólaey Viewpoint

The elevated viewpoint near the black sand beach is Dyrhólaey, a headland with sweeping views along the coast.

It was beautiful, but the wind was gusting, the cliffs were high, and I’m already a little nervous around heights.

We took a few photos and lasted about five minutes.

That was another Iceland lesson: sometimes a place is incredible, but the conditions mean it’s a short visit. You don’t have to force it.

Exploring Iceland’s Golden Circle

The Golden Circle brings together waterfalls, geothermal activity, and some of Iceland’s most important history.

On our retreat day, strong morning winds meant we pushed our departure back by about an hour. Having that flexibility made a difference.

Gullfoss: A Waterfall & Our First Retreat Proposal

Gullfoss is enormous, and the power of the water is incredible to witness.

It also became the setting for one of the most special moments we’ve ever had on a retreat: one of our guests proposed to her partner.

Our first Coherence retreat proposal, in front of an Icelandic waterfall. We were all so excited to be there.

Geysir Geothermal Area

We visited the geothermal area where Strokkur erupts, and somehow managed to pop champagne at the same time the water shot out of the earth.

Celebrating an engagement while a geyser erupts behind you is a pretty unforgettable afternoon.

Even without the champagne, watching the water build and suddenly launch into the air is such a cool experience.

Laugarvatn Fontana

Fontana was one of my favorite spa experiences of the trip.

The weather had been rough earlier that day, and when we arrived, it was wonderfully quiet. It almost felt like we had the place to ourselves.

We soaked in warm pools overlooking the lake, and there was the option to enter the lake for a natural cold plunge.

The renovated facilities include a sauna with a panoramic window and a steam room built over a geyser. You can hear the activity below, which makes the experience feel very connected to the landscape. The steam was intense for me, and you definitely notice the sulfur smell. But the pools, setting, and sauna were beautiful.

Þingvellir National Park

Þingvellir was a place I appreciated even more after learning its history.

Iceland’s Alþing assembly was established here around 930, and the landscape became a gathering place for lawmaking and major national events.

You’re also walking through a rift landscape shaped by tectonic plates moving apart. The dramatic gorge gives you a visible sense of those geological forces.

That combination of scenery, geology, and human history made it much more meaningful than simply stopping for a photo.

Friðheimar Tomato Farm

When Brendan joined me, we visited Friðheimar, where you eat inside a working tomato greenhouse.

I loved this experience.

Outside, you’re in Iceland. Inside, you’re surrounded by tomato plants, enjoying incredibly fresh food in this warm greenhouse.

The farm grows tomatoes year-round using greenhouse lighting, geothermal heat, and clean water.

We had tomato soup, burrata, and tomato drinks, and everything was delicious. It was pricey, but for us, it was worth it.

This is one lunch I would plan ahead and make a reservation for.

Laugarás Lagoon

We also visited Laugarás Lagoon toward the end of the day.

It was a little rainy and getting close to sunset, and we enjoyed having another chance to slow down in warm water before continuing to our hotel.

If you’re exploring the Golden Circle and want to include a lagoon, consider this option alongside Fontana. We enjoyed experiencing both.

Rainy-Day Activities in South Iceland

We had some beautiful weather during the retreat, but a big storm rolled in during my trip with Brendan.

Rather than pushing ahead with every outdoor plan, we changed things around and ended up finding some of our favorite indoor experiences.

Caves of Hella

The Caves of Hella were an interesting stop, especially if you enjoy history with a little mystery.

These are man-made caves, but their exact age and origins remain uncertain. Some theories suggest they predate the Norse settlement, although that isn’t established fact.

We saw carvings in the walls and heard about the different theories surrounding their history.

I got a little claustrophobic in parts, but it was a memorable rainy-day activity.

LAVA Centre in Hvolsvöllur

The LAVA Centre was one of the coolest museums I’ve visited.

It’s an interactive exhibition about Iceland’s volcanoes and earthquakes, and it helped me understand so much more about the landscapes we were driving through.

I’m not someone who wants every trip to revolve around museums, but this one really held my attention. It was a perfect stop when the weather outside wasn’t cooperating.

Lava Show in Vík

The Lava Show was another highlight.

They reheat real lava and pour it into a controlled showroom, so you get to see it flowing up close and feel the heat.

Neither Brendan nor I had seen molten lava before, and we were both fascinated. We had soup there afterward and enjoyed being somewhere warm while the weather did its thing outside.

The LAVA Centre and Lava Show are different experiences, and I enjoyed both: one helped explain Iceland’s geology, and the other let us witness flowing lava.

Our Favorite Countryside Hotels

Skálakot Manor Hotel

For our South Coast stay, Brendan and I booked Skálakot Manor Hotel, a boutique hotel on a horse farm!!

We arrived in miserable weather, and having warm soup before settling in felt perfect. We tried lamb soup and leek soup, met some of the horses, and spent time in the spa.

There was a hot tub and sauna, and whenever we used them, it felt like we had the place to ourselves.

The food was another highlight. I’m still thinking about the beet carpaccio we had at dinner. Easily some of the best beets I’ve ever eaten.

We also enjoyed a nearby tractor-themed café and explored smaller waterfalls around the area, including Íráfoss. Some of our favorite moments were simply looking at the map and choosing a little side adventure.

Hotel Rangá

Hotel Rangá was my favorite stay of the trip!

We received a welcome drink when we arrived, and there was a bottle of red wine and an anniversary note waiting in our room. Those little touches made it feel special.

We had a delicious dinner, took dessert and wine back to our room, and settled in for the evening.

Then the phone rang.

The Northern Lights were out!!

Seeing the Northern Lights at Hotel Rangá

I had just stepped into the bathtub when we got the call, and what followed was complete chaos as we rushed to get dressed and run outside.

At first, lots of guests were out watching. As time passed, people started heading back indoors, but we stayed.

Then the sky began glowing bright green.

The lights moved, changed shape, faded, brightened again, and stretched across so much of the sky. They were actually dancing above us.

I took photos on my iPhone, then went inside to figure out the settings on my new camera before heading out for round two. Reception even called again while we were inside because the display was continuing.

I also loved that the hotel had warm snowsuits guests could borrow. Being properly bundled up made it possible to stay outside for much longer.

We spent hours going in and out, watching the sky and taking photos. Seeing the Northern Lights had been on my bucket list my whole life, and this was everything I had hoped for.

The next morning, we enjoyed one of the outdoor hot tubs around sunrise before checking out. It was a pretty perfect ending to our countryside stay.

What to Know About Seeing the Northern Lights

One thing I learned is that being in Iceland doesn’t automatically mean you’ll see a bright green sky.

You need several things to come together:

• Darkness: Enough nighttime darkness to see the display.

• Clear patches of sky: Clouds can hide the lights.

• Auroral activity: The display needs to be happening where you can see it.

• A good viewing location: Less artificial light generally helps.

• Patience: The display can change significantly while you’re watching.

• Apps: Download Hello Aurora and set alerts for the aurora in your area 

Faint aurora can look pale or grayish to your eyes, even when a camera picks up green. Give your eyes time to adjust and take breaks from looking at your phone. Moonlight can affect the contrast, but you don’t need a moonless night to see a strong display.

We chose October because it offered dark nights without planning a trip in the middle of winter. The tradeoff was unpredictable autumn weather, including rain, wind, and cloud cover.

We saw a faint display during the retreat, then had that spectacular night at Hotel Rangá where we saw a lot of green flare-ups. Later, back in Reykjavík, we even caught another glimpse after dinner.

There is some luck involved, which made the moments when everything came together feel even more special.

Sky Lagoon, Blue Lagoon, Fontana or Laugarás?

We visited all four, and I enjoyed them for different reasons.

Lagoon/Spa	What stood out to me
Sky Lagoon	The ocean setting, beautiful sauna, and seven-step ritual
Blue Lagoon	The iconic blue water, free facemasks, and a fun shared experience with our retreat
Laugarvatn Fontana	Lake views, natural steam, and how peaceful it felt (not a lot of people)
Laugarás Lagoon	A lovely stop to slow down while exploring the Golden Circle

For the retreat, we visited Blue Lagoon at 9 a.m., and I loved arriving before it became busier. We enjoyed the masks included with our admission and spent a couple of hours soaking together.

I went back with Brendan because he wanted to experience it too.

 

What We Did in Reykjavík

Reykjavík was such a cute place to spend time between countryside adventures.

We wandered along Rainbow Street, went shopping, found cafés and bars, and enjoyed having afternoons where we could simply explore on foot.

A few memorable experiences:

Live music at the bookstore bar. This became one of the most fun nights of the retreat. We ended up near the front, singing at the top of our lungs, dancing, and staying for hours. The place became packed, and we had the best time.

Icelandic hot dogs. We had to try them.

The Icelandic Phallological Museum. We went as a group, and it was certainly an experience. An impressive number of animal specimens, some laughs, and probably something I only need to do once.

Free time to explore. On our last retreat afternoon, some women shopped, others visited an ice bar, and some went to the Lava Show. I loved leaving space for everyone to follow their own interests before our farewell dinner.

Restaurants We Enjoyed

ROK

We went to ROK during the retreat and really enjoyed it. The smaller dishes made it possible to try different flavors, and the food was delicious.

One thing I learned throughout the trip: ask about portion sizes before ordering. A dish that sounds like a shareable appetizer may arrive as a very individual portion.

Grillmarkaðurinn - The Grill Market

Brendan and I had dinner here in Reykjavík, and it was so good.

We ordered lamb and tried a few other things. Iceland has some adventurous foods, and I’ll leave that part there.

It was a lovely dinner for our first part of the trip together.

Matarkjallarinn - Foodcellar

This was our final dinner in Iceland. We had reindeer and Arctic char, and it was a delicious way to close out the trip.

Hotel Restaurants

Some of our favorite meals were at our hotels, particularly Skálakot and Hotel Rangá.

After a day of driving, wind, rain, and sightseeing, having a great dinner where you’re staying is a luxury in itself.

Practical Tips for Visiting Iceland in October

Keep Your Plans Flexible

We experienced strong winds, heavy rain, dramatic clouds, sunshine, and rainbows, sometimes within the same day.

Have a plan, but leave space to change it. On stormy days, our museum and cave visits ended up being memorable parts of the trip.

Check forecasts, road conditions, and local alerts before setting out.

Pack for Wind and Rain

Waterproof outer layers and shoes made a huge difference, especially around waterfalls.

Bring warm layers, a hat, gloves, spare socks, and swimwear. You can spend part of the day getting soaked outside and another part soaking in a lagoon.

Budget for the Food

Iceland was expensive. There’s no getting around that, but you can make choices that help.

I brought plenty of snack bars from the States for long drives and days out. A substantial breakfast also meant I sometimes only wanted something small for lunch.

You don’t need a fancy restaurant dinner every night. Mix in casual meals, groceries, and snacks so you can choose the experiences you most want to spend on.

Leave Time for Smaller Stops

The headline attractions are incredible, but I also loved our less-planned moments: a tiny café, a waterfall near our hotel, meeting horses, or clicking on a place on the map and deciding to investigate.

Give yourself enough time to enjoy those moments too.

Respect the Landscape

Iceland’s scenery can make you want to get closer to everything. But the waves, cliffs, glaciers, geothermal areas, and volcanic terrain all deserve care.

Stay on marked paths, follow closures, and park only where it’s permitted. You can have an extraordinary experience without pushing past your comfort level or the local guidance.

Why Iceland Left Such an Impression on Me

What stayed with me most was the nature.

The black beaches. The waterfalls. The horses standing in these enormous landscapes. Steam rising from the ground. Rainbows appearing after the rain. A sky suddenly filling with green dancing lights.

I’ve traveled to a lot of countries, and Iceland made me feel something I hadn’t felt in a long time.

Sharing it first with the women on our retreat, then with Brendan, gave me two very different experiences of the same place. Both were so special.

I would absolutely go back. I want to travel farther east past Vík, explore the north, and spend more time in the quieter corners we didn’t reach.

And while I wouldn’t call myself a photographer, I could barely put my camera down.

I came home with a lifetime of memories, so much gratitude, and a reminder of how beautiful life can be.

If Iceland has been on your bucket list, I understand why. And if you want to experience adventures like this with a group of women, explore our upcoming Coherence retreats. Bringing people together to share these moments is one of my favorite things we get to do.

- Kimberly Kennedy, Founder of Coherence Retreats 

 

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